Glenmorangie Signet – Flying Squadron Club

Glenmorangie Signet – Flying Squadron Club

The Whisky: Glenmorangie Signet 46%

Country of Origin: Scotland (Highland)

The Location: Foy’s Resteraunt, Sydney Flying Squadron Club, Kirribilli, Sydney

In addition to having a very cool name the Sydney Flying Squadron lays claim to being Australia’s oldest skiff club and was founded in 1891. Nothing to do with planes and mostly to do with boats, the club looks over (the fairly aptly named) Careening Cove in the suburb of Kirribilli, Sydney. This is just over the hill from the famous Sydney Harbour Bridge and where I did a tasting of the Glenmorangie 18.

We decided to take ourselves out for a nice meal and arrived at Foys, the club’s restaurant, just as the rain started to pelt down. Warm and cosy at our table we looked out into the dim, dying light watching the yachts and launches bob in the wind, lashed by the evening rain.

Foy’s has a bunch of pretty great whiskies behind the bar – apparently there used to be an even wider selection however demand has dropped and justifying a diverse range of whiskies has become difficult (so get yourself down there and show that there’s demand for fine whiskies!). But the one I had my eye on was a Highland Single Malt from one of my favorite distilleries – the Glenmorangie Signet.

The Signet has no age statement, although apparently there are some fairly old barrels in this, including the ‘oldest whisky’ (with no clue as to the age or character) according to Glenmorangie (along with some not quite so old whisky, we can safely presume). My guess would be that a fair proportion has spent 21 years in the barrel, but that’s just my guess.

Another bit of trivia: ‘Signet’ refers to the fancy square design seen on the Glenmorangie bottles. The design for the Glenmorangie Signet is from the Hilton of Cadboll Stone, a 1200 year old Pictish artefact.

In the nose this is more golden syrup than caramel. A little spice, but mild. Sherried fruit. Flamed raw sugar – think of the caramalised top of a creme brulee. The aromatics are subdued, or should I say subtle, but present – they don’t jump out but they’re solidly there. Ever so slightly dusty wood. Toast. Pine nuts.

Palate. Silky. Slight tingle on the tip of the tongue. Black coffee. Xmas pudding fruit and spice. Elegant smoke – more peat than char but there is some light, ash with the sweet smokiness of the peat, not subtle but nothing like any Islay. Woody herbs – thyme or rosemary stems?

Finish: Smooooooth. Light dry finish. Perfect heat warming the entire mouth space, stopping at the top of the throat. Pretty long finish, more savory than might be expected, but still some sweetness.

What does it remind me of?

A bunch of Japanese whiskies spring to mind instantly. The Miyagikyo 15, Ichiros Double Distilleries or Malt and Grain. The Taketsuru 17 or 21 (but with less heat than either). I think this has a lot to do with the silky mouthfeel and the way the sweetness plays against savoury herbs and a little fruit. The measured smoke is also similar (nothing like your average Islay, so don’t be scared).

The Glenmorangie 18 also springs to mind but this isn’t as rich (although Glenmorangie claims that it’s their richest whisky), isn’t as sweet, is smokier and is even more refined.

What do I think?

Exceptional. One of the best whiskies I’ve had, it’s truly superb. The Signet is masterfully crafted – balanced, complex and delightful. If you’re looking for something premium I’d point you towards this – it easily exceeds some of the well known single malts and blends in the 18-21 year age range that are available at a similar price point.

There really isn’t much more to say. If you haven’t tried this yet I highly recommend you seek it out and experience it for yourself.