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Helios Pure Malt – At a Local Rockclimbing Crag

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Helios Pure Malt – At a Local Rockclimbing Crag

The Whisky: Helios Pure Malt (40% abv)

Country of Origin: Japan (Okinawa)

The Location: Another local rockclimbing crag

In these strange time our plans for epic adventures far from home have been revised to local outings where we can work confined muscles and soak up some sunshine. With some nice Autumn weather finally giving us the opportunity to get outside K and I headed to a local rockclimbing crag. Like a natural indoor climbing gym, this crag offers short, fun climbs with a short walk from the car. The crag is characteristically Sydney sandstone – deep orange and black featured walls with grasstrees, eucalypts and banksias adding greenery.

The cliffs are heavily weathered and featured ranging from vertical slabs to steep, pocketed overhangs. The top of the crag has views stretching deep into the forested valley below and the crag catches the afternoon sun – making it wonderful on cool Autumn and Winter days. Spread across a few hundred meters of cliffline it allowed ample space for us to stay well distanced from the few other climbers who had also headed out.

Having climbed here many times over the years we decided to throw ourselves at some routes that we’d stayed away from previously – either due to quality, length or difficulty. We had mixed success in terms of cleanly reaching the top, but lots of fun trying new moves and simply being outdoors to exercise.

As we began to tire we switched onto climbs we were more familiar with and during rest breaks watched the other climbers making their ascents. Encouragement was given from afar and the mood was super positive between the climbers – being able to get outside and even the limited interaction with other people was obviously something everyone was craving.

Finally, with aching arms it was time to step back from the rock for a while and have a couple of drams.

Today’s whisky is the Helios Pure Malt, yet another Japanese whisky I can tell you very little about, aside of how it tastes. Helios definitely has a distillery in Okinawa so there’s a very good chance this is fully Japanese produced (and not imported whisky finished in Japan) although if so it’s unlikely the barley is locally grown – it’s certainly not something Okinawa is known for. With a small production though it’s conceivable that the grain could be locally grown, but I haven’t been able to confirm or deny this.

This very nearly didn’t make it to the cellar – on the 2nd day of our last trip to Japan (in 2018) I grabbed two bottles of this in a convenience store on a whim because I hadn’t heard of the distillery. I fully planned to drink both bottles while I was over there. But a dearth of decent Japanese whisky and a surprise illness (so no drinking) meant they made it into the suitcase.

I first tried this with a couple of friends at a riverside park last year and I’ve been intrigued ever since. This whisky begs to be enjoyed by the ocean.

Established in 1961, Helios has more of a history making Awamori (a type of Japanese rice spirit) but have also branched into rum, umeshu (plum wine), liqueurs and whisky. The distillery is in the far south of Japan, on the island of Okinawa, away from the more well known Japanese whisky labels further north. I’m confident that Helios is also responsible for the Kura White Oak (8 and 12), available in Australia, although these don’t get a mention on the distilleries product page – so either their marketing team is a bit slow in updating their English language pages or these might be export only products (somewhat common in Japan at the moment). The Kura are super smooth and sweet grain whiskies – in this case rice. Definitely worth trying, although the prices are prohibitive. I also think the Kujira 20yo (another rice whisky) is from the same distillery – the style seems very similar to the Kura’s (and the name is similar!) although the Kura’s and the Kujira are very different to the Pure Malt I’m having today.

So what’s the whisky like?

The nose is briny and vegetal but is lacking the peat that normally supports these notes and there’s no noticeable wood. There’s nutmeg, nut oil, lemon/lime and a little vanilla sweetness but everything is light – or maybe this is because, due to the flavor types, you expect more intensity. It could also be because the flavor profile makes me think ‘Islay’, so I’m expecting something bold, rich and full bodied.

On the palate there’s malty, oily, coastal flavors that carry on from the nose. The peat is still notably absent and I automatically search for it. There’s salt, some seaweed and surprising tropical fruits (Carambola, tinned pineapple and banana).

The finish is mouth warming, long and maintains that coastal consistency from the nose and palate. A savory walnut oil opens up in the cheeks leading into a coastal finish that maintains consistency from the nose and palate. There’s still no noticeable oak.

What does it remind me of?

The absolute first impression I had of this was of a sun bleached fishing village on a bright, sunny afternoon when the boats were yet to return to offload their catch and everyone in the village was snoozing. A light coastal breeze carries the scent of salt, spilled oil and freshly washed up seaweed. Someone’s grandma must be baking walnut cookies a few houses away and some type of tropical fruit lies overripe nearby.

This is Islays or Islands without peat. Laphroaig Select with no peat, or maybe the unpeated, low abv whisky Ardbeg never released (that likely doesn’t exist in case you think I’m hinting at something). I haven’t had something that comes close to comparing to this, but I think it’s a worthwhile style and would like to see more (or get some recommendations if anyone knows of something similar).

What do I think?

Initially this suffers from a lack of peat but after having a few more drams I think that’s more due to my conditioned association of peat with this oily, coastal flavor profile. It comes across as unbalanced and overly light. But it’s unbalanced in the way a landlubber feels when the skipper turns his little cutter sharply into wind. Once you’ve got your sea legs on this it’s fair sailing as the wild flavors work well together and never get overly challenging, the heat is vigorous and warming rather than burning and the oilyness borders on silk (or at least soft canvas).

It’s a perfect example of why whisky hunters lurk in Japanese convenience stores – unique, quality treasures like this can be found at super value prices in super convenient sizes so you’re totally willing to take a risk on a distillery you’ve never heard of.

Not one for every evening but would be awesome as a lead in to a line up of Islays or Island whiskies. I plan to sample this before and after a couple of Islays (Ardbeg, Laphroaig and Lagavulin) to see how it goes – I expect that oiliness and brininess will disappear revealing the tropical fruits and spices (and what else??). If you’re ever doing a drinking night with friends and the theme is ‘Coastal’ throw this in as a curveball.

If you’re looking for new styles, or playful interpretations of existing styles then this is a whisky for you. Any fan of the younger blended Japanese malts should also get a lot out of this.

The Helios Pure Malt is distinctly different to other Japanese whiskies I’ve had and I’d like to think that the distillery is capturing the warmer, coastal environs to influence this unique whisky.

Glenmorangie Signet – Flying Squadron Club

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Glenmorangie Signet – Flying Squadron Club

The Whisky: Glenmorangie Signet 46%

Country of Origin: Scotland (Highland)

The Location: Foy’s Resteraunt, Sydney Flying Squadron Club, Kirribilli, Sydney

In addition to having a very cool name the Sydney Flying Squadron lays claim to being Australia’s oldest skiff club and was founded in 1891. Nothing to do with planes and mostly to do with boats, the club looks over (the fairly aptly named) Careening Cove in the suburb of Kirribilli, Sydney. This is just over the hill from the famous Sydney Harbour Bridge and where I did a tasting of the Glenmorangie 18.

We decided to take ourselves out for a nice meal and arrived at Foys, the club’s restaurant, just as the rain started to pelt down. Warm and cosy at our table we looked out into the dim, dying light watching the yachts and launches bob in the wind, lashed by the evening rain.

Foy’s has a bunch of pretty great whiskies behind the bar – apparently there used to be an even wider selection however demand has dropped and justifying a diverse range of whiskies has become difficult (so get yourself down there and show that there’s demand for fine whiskies!). But the one I had my eye on was a Highland Single Malt from one of my favorite distilleries – the Glenmorangie Signet.

The Signet has no age statement, although apparently there are some fairly old barrels in this, including the ‘oldest whisky’ (with no clue as to the age or character) according to Glenmorangie (along with some not quite so old whisky, we can safely presume). My guess would be that a fair proportion has spent 21 years in the barrel, but that’s just my guess.

Another bit of trivia: ‘Signet’ refers to the fancy square design seen on the Glenmorangie bottles. The design for the Glenmorangie Signet is from the Hilton of Cadboll Stone, a 1200 year old Pictish artefact.

In the nose this is more golden syrup than caramel. A little spice, but mild. Sherried fruit. Flamed raw sugar – think of the caramalised top of a creme brulee. The aromatics are subdued, or should I say subtle, but present – they don’t jump out but they’re solidly there. Ever so slightly dusty wood. Toast. Pine nuts.

Palate. Silky. Slight tingle on the tip of the tongue. Black coffee. Xmas pudding fruit and spice. Elegant smoke – more peat than char but there is some light, ash with the sweet smokiness of the peat, not subtle but nothing like any Islay. Woody herbs – thyme or rosemary stems?

Finish: Smooooooth. Light dry finish. Perfect heat warming the entire mouth space, stopping at the top of the throat. Pretty long finish, more savory than might be expected, but still some sweetness.

What does it remind me of?

A bunch of Japanese whiskies spring to mind instantly. The Miyagikyo 15, Ichiros Double Distilleries or Malt and Grain. The Taketsuru 17 or 21 (but with less heat than either). I think this has a lot to do with the silky mouthfeel and the way the sweetness plays against savoury herbs and a little fruit. The measured smoke is also similar (nothing like your average Islay, so don’t be scared).

The Glenmorangie 18 also springs to mind but this isn’t as rich (although Glenmorangie claims that it’s their richest whisky), isn’t as sweet, is smokier and is even more refined.

What do I think?

Exceptional. One of the best whiskies I’ve had, it’s truly superb. The Signet is masterfully crafted – balanced, complex and delightful. If you’re looking for something premium I’d point you towards this – it easily exceeds some of the well known single malts and blends in the 18-21 year age range that are available at a similar price point.

There really isn’t much more to say. If you haven’t tried this yet I highly recommend you seek it out and experience it for yourself.

Glenfiddich 15 YO Solera Reserve – North Curl Curl, Sydney, Australia

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Glenfiddich 15 YO Solera Reserve – North Curl Curl, Sydney, Australia

The Whisky: Glenfiddich 15 Unique Solera Reserve 40%

Country of Origin: Scotland (Speyside)

The Location: North Curl Curl Headland, Sydney, NSW

North Curl Curl is the best beach in the entire world – at least that’s how it seemed as a child. With a craggy headland with sheer drops, bush trails, rock pools full of life and of course the long sweep of a surf beach with soft, golden sand, Curl Curl was a perfect place for a child to explore and holds many many of my best memories. This love affair has continued into adulthood and I still visit frequently. Today it’s for a walk with my father and, of course, a whisky.

Starting at the car park behind the beach club at the northern end of the beach we ascend the paved stone trail up through spring flowers to the headland that overlooks the beach. A series of rock platforms lead through windblasted, stunted coastal vegetation to expansive views over the area. The headland terminates in crumbing, craggy cliffs that drop down to a wave battered platform scattered with fallen debris.

This walk continues northwards for a kilometer or so through native coastal heath to the Dee Why beach, the next beach on the eastern coast.

We stop at a rock platform with a view, one of our favourite spots, and bond over a drink. Today dad has supplied the whisky, a Glenfiddich 15 year old ‘Unique Solera Reserve’.

The Glenfiddich 15 Solera is aged in ex-bourbon, ex-sherry and virgin oak casks and is then combined in a Solera vat – where when the whisky is emptied for bottling a little of the spirit is left in the vat for the next fill. This means that each bottling contains some of the whisky from the original run, and from every run since. As such the Solera process is a type of ‘infinity process, although I doubt it has a significant impact on the spirit.

The nose. Raisins but slightly sharp, as if they’ve been macerated in sherry. Red fruit – I think preserved plums. Leather. Toffee, but not butterscotch – more towards honeycomb.

The palate: Spice – white and black pepper, clove. There’s a noticeable burn at the top of the palate. Medium body, too light for the burn and the spice. There are some nuts, almonds.

The finish is shorter than expected and finishes fairly abruptly. I’m left more with an alcohol sensation than any actually flavours and these fade before the low burn does. Some of the sherry notes and sweetness persist, but faintly.

What it reminds me of: Aberlour 12, but inferior. Glenfarclas 10 or 12, but I think both Glenfarclas are more interesting and have more character. It reminds me of any sherry cask finish whisky I decided not to buy.

What do I think? I think the Glenfiddich 12 is a great, approachable, good value whisky and I’d hoped for more from this. This wasn’t the first time drinking the 15, but I pretty much only ever drink it when I’m with my parents and I’ll generally pick something else instead. I’m not a fan, I think the flavours are muddled, the body is weak and the overall execution is poor for a whisky from such an established distillery, of this age and at the price it sells for.

Hakushu Single Malt NA – Hakushu Distillery, Yamanashi Prefecture, Japan

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The whiskey: Suntory Hakushu Single Malt NA 43%

Country of Origin: Japan (Yamanashi Prefecture)

Location: Suntory Hakushu Distillery, Yamanashi Prefecture, Japan

The Hakushu is a relatively popular single malt whiskey from one of the big Japanese whiskey houses, Suntory. Although Hakushu isn’t one of my favourite whiskeys, or even one of my favourite Japanese whiskeys, it’s special to me because it was the first Japanese whiskey I tasted – in a brightly lit izakaya in Tsukuba, Ibaraki Prefecture. I was dragged there by a few colleagues and decided to treat myself to the whiskey the bar was promoting – the Hakushu 12.

A week before my visit to the distillery Suntory announced that they would be discontinuing the flagship Hakushu 12 due to supply issues – we’re all drinking the stuff quicker than they can produce it. The day I visited I was recovering from a serious chest infection, it was raining and the shuttle bus had been cancelled so the trip to get there was a little epic. I also wasn’t entirely certain the distillery was going to be open since it had been closed for maintenance recently and in light of the 12YO’s future I could understand if tours were no longer being conducted. So it was with relief that when I arrived the gate was open and I was welcomed in.

The Hakushu distillery rests in forested area at the foot of Mount Kaikoma in the Southern Japanese Alps and much is made of the distillery’s natural setting and access to pristine water. It really is a pretty location, up in the hills and the grounds of the distillery (or those that you can access) are serene and aesthetic and worth walking through.

As well as the distillery area the site has a bar (which I didn’t visit), a whiskey museum and the obligatory gift shop. The museum is well worth a look, so if you plan to visit set some time aside for this.

The tour covers the history of the site, the component ingredients (including an excellent hands on explanation of what ingredients whiskey is made from) and goes directly through the distilling area – past the mash tuns and the stills and into the barrel store. The tour is excellent and caters to English speaking tourists well.

The tour concludes with a tasting of some of the separate component parts of the Hakushu NA including lightly peated spirit, japanese white oak barreled spirit and finally the completed Hakushu single malt.

Note: Tasting notes are for the Hakushu NA Single Malt, not for the component parts

The nose: Vanilla, herbs ( I don’t get mint as our guide suggests, I would have said coriander leaf). I get the cucumber, but only after it was specifically pointed out by our guide. Light, bright but dilute honey. There’s a touch of peat lurking back there if you look for it.

On the palate: Light green tea, the light wood – I’d say the white oak is doing something in there, otherwise there’s french oak too (think Macallan 12 Fine Oak). Definitely citrus, yes to the yuzu and lemon, although my first thought was pink grapefruit. I get a little toasted nut – almonds or cashews, but faintly. Some peaty heat after the swallow, but very mild.

The finish. It does actually hang around but it’s pretty subtle, so it seems like it finished earlier than it really does. I’m left with the vanilla from the wood, some sweet peat aftermath and some really subtle buttered toast characteristics. Honeyed lemon peel (again, really light).

What do I think: It’s a good whiskey, but not one I’ve often reached for. It’s too subtle and light for me – not good enough on it’s own (in comparison to alternatives) but too good to use in a highball (it does make a very good highball though). It’d make a good introduction whiskey though as it’s approachable and inoffensive, despite being (lightly) peated.

What does it remind me of: Macallan 12 Fine Oak. But not as seamless and with a lighter mouthfeel and flavours. Given that in Australia it retails at about the same price as the Macallan 12 Fine Oak I’d pick the Macallan.

Nikka Miyagikyo NA – Kosciusko National Park, Snowy Mountains, Australia

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Nikka Miyagikyo NA – Kosiuscko National Park, Snowy Mountains, Australia

The Miyagikyo 12 is one of my favourite whiskeys ever, deliciously silky, and balanced with just a hint of smoke to round out the finish. The no age offering is also a favourite as it captures a lot of what I love about the 12YO but is so much more affordable, even with the inflation of Japanese whiskey prices in recent years. The Miyagikyo is starting to make it’s way into Australia in bars and Japanese restaurants, so keep an eye out for it.

The Whiskey: Nikka Miyagikyo NA 45%

Country of Origin: Japan (Miyagi Prefecture)

The location: Main Range, Kosciusko National Park, Snowy Mountains, Australia

The Snowy mountains (commonly called the ‘Snowies’) are, by international standards, underwhelming as a mountain range – in many places they’d barely qualify as foothills at the base of mountains. Yet for us this collection of craggy peaks, rounded treeless hills and alpine lakes is what we consider our ‘local’ alpine area. We often visit the area in summer to hike using the elevation as a way to escape Australia’s brutal mid-summer heat.

Ascending from the valley below you pass through thick eucalyptus forests and fern groves, weaving your way upwards until the thick, lower growth gives way to alpine herbs and snow gums. The snow gums, with their multi hued bark and twisted, stunted forms are almost surreal, but beautiful parodies of what a tree should be.

Once you reach the alpine tundra it becomes reminiscent of images of the scottish highlands, thick, low heath and soaring tussocked hills scattered with freshwater springs and waterfalls. Snow drifts are still present even in midsummer, clinging to the shadows. The diminutive heights of the largest mountains (our highest peak, Mt Kosciusko is a mere 2288m) and their rounded shape give a false sense that this is easy country to access – while it’s not considered difficult terrain for experienced walkers the ascent from the nearest township at 1500m is still grueling. Along the spine of the Main Range runs an old road, now closed to traffic, that is bare, often windblasted and exposed to the elements and once we’ve gained the heights we use this to trek towards our campsite. For Australia this is a unique landscape, occupying a tiny percentage of our landmass, and the threat of climate change looms large over its future.

As the Range tumbles southwards down craggy bluffs we follow a creekline down into a secluded glade, hidden mostly from the wind and with a source of water close by. With camp set up it’s time for a dram.

On the nose – sherry fruit,

On the palate – silky, light cocoa, red fruits (pickled plum??)

The finish – lingers, with a wisp of smoke to finish it off.

What do I think: Phenomenal, especially for a no age whiskey that retails at around $65 a bottle (in Japan, depending on the exchange rate and taxes). This has been my ‘go to’ Japanese whiskey for years and for good reason. I don’t think it’s a typical example of the style that Japanese whiskeys are known for, but it’s an excellent example of what Japanese distillers can achieve. Very enjoyable.

What it reminds me of: Dimple 15 is probably the closest match to this that I can think of, although the Miyagikyo is smoother and has a distinctly Japanese flavour I can’t quite pick – pickled plums perhaps. Some of the Mars distillery’s offerings, especially the Iwai are in a similar style and other wine cask finish whiskeys carry similar stone fruit flavours.

Joadja Single Malt PX Cask Batch 7 – Mt Boyce, Blue Mountains, Australia

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Joadja Single Malt PX Cask Batch 7 – Mt Boyce, Blue Mountains Australia

Joadja is a relatively recent find for me and is already very special to me, both the location where it’s made, the distillery it’s made in and the whiskey itself.

Whiskey: Joadja Single Malt PX Cask Batch 7 48%

Country of Origin: Australia (Southern Highlands)

The location: Mt Boyce, Walkdown Gully Area

Joadja’s 7th batch of their sexy PX finished single malt comes in a convenient 200ml bottle, so when a whiskey loving mate suddenly wanted to drive to the Blue Mountains for a climb it fit easily into my pack, tucked in against a couple of small whisky glasses.

Mt Boyce is a favourite climbing destination – steeped in history the first ascents of these 70m+ cliffs were with outdated climbing equipment, to the point of being considered dangerously inadequate by today’s standards. Although modernisation has caught up with Boyce the crag retains some of it’s former glory with long, committing routes requiring equipment that can be slotted into the naturally occurring cracks and pockets of the cliff. This style of climbing is more arduous, and in many ways more rewarding, than more modern techniques. The ever present gusts of wind and the long line of jagged buttresses and deep amphitheres make it an atmospheric location.

It was here, perched on a rock in the sun, after ascending one of the classic routes of the area the we treated ourselves to a medicinal couple of drams of Joadja PX to settle the nerves.

I find Joadja’s offerings really exciting – beyond two whiskeys they also product a gin on site (with lemon myrtle a pleasantly dominating and refreshing note), an anise liqueur, a new make and they also import Pedro Ximinez (a fortified wine) from their hometown in Spain. It’s the barrels the PX is shipping in that are used to finish the PX cask whiskey. The whiskey spends two years on wood, any more and the PX influence would be overwhelming.

On the nose: Syrupy raisins, butterscotch,

On the palate: Christmas pudding

The finish: Is long and heavy, leaving you with the PX wine flavours long after you’ve put the glass down.

What do I think: This is a whiskey that excites me a lot. I really enjoy it and although it can be challenging I think that actually adds to the appeal – there is some burn but it suits the style, the PX dominates but it works, it’s super syrupy and sweet but in a sexy way. Two drams and I’ve had enough, but I enjoy those two drams a lot. Against other offerings in your local whiskey store this won’t seem like great value, but find me another estate produced two year old whiskey that drinks anywhere near as well and only then will I reconsider. Joadja don’t make a fuss about it, but their whiskey is an estate production – meaning they grow their own grain, use water from a spring on site and do all spirit distillation, barreling, aging and bottling on site. It gets more exciting when you discover this is a family team who use PX casks direct from their hometown in Spain to finish the spirit and the entire distillery sits within an abandoned historic village, nestled deep within the Southern highlands, south of Sydney. Joadja have only been producing since 2014 so given that and the size of their operation and their approach to sourcing the ingredients I think what they’re producing is very impressive and this is one distillery to watch.

What it reminds me of: Concentrated Aberlour 12 perhaps? Like the most intense sherry or PX cask whisky you’ve every had. Really it doesn’t remind me of anything specific, and that’s kinda cool.