The whiskey: Suntory Hakushu Single Malt NA 43%
Country of Origin: Japan (Yamanashi Prefecture)
Location: Suntory Hakushu Distillery, Yamanashi Prefecture, Japan
The Hakushu is a relatively popular single malt whiskey from one of the big Japanese whiskey houses, Suntory. Although Hakushu isn’t one of my favourite whiskeys, or even one of my favourite Japanese whiskeys, it’s special to me because it was the first Japanese whiskey I tasted – in a brightly lit izakaya in Tsukuba, Ibaraki Prefecture. I was dragged there by a few colleagues and decided to treat myself to the whiskey the bar was promoting – the Hakushu 12.
A week before my visit to the distillery Suntory announced that they would be discontinuing the flagship Hakushu 12 due to supply issues – we’re all drinking the stuff quicker than they can produce it. The day I visited I was recovering from a serious chest infection, it was raining and the shuttle bus had been cancelled so the trip to get there was a little epic. I also wasn’t entirely certain the distillery was going to be open since it had been closed for maintenance recently and in light of the 12YO’s future I could understand if tours were no longer being conducted. So it was with relief that when I arrived the gate was open and I was welcomed in.
The Hakushu distillery rests in forested area at the foot of Mount Kaikoma in the Southern Japanese Alps and much is made of the distillery’s natural setting and access to pristine water. It really is a pretty location, up in the hills and the grounds of the distillery (or those that you can access) are serene and aesthetic and worth walking through.
As well as the distillery area the site has a bar (which I didn’t visit), a whiskey museum and the obligatory gift shop. The museum is well worth a look, so if you plan to visit set some time aside for this.
The tour covers the history of the site, the component ingredients (including an excellent hands on explanation of what ingredients whiskey is made from) and goes directly through the distilling area – past the mash tuns and the stills and into the barrel store. The tour is excellent and caters to English speaking tourists well.
The tour concludes with a tasting of some of the separate component parts of the Hakushu NA including lightly peated spirit, japanese white oak barreled spirit and finally the completed Hakushu single malt.
Note: Tasting notes are for the Hakushu NA Single Malt, not for the component parts
The nose: Vanilla, herbs ( I don’t get mint as our guide suggests, I would have said coriander leaf). I get the cucumber, but only after it was specifically pointed out by our guide. Light, bright but dilute honey. There’s a touch of peat lurking back there if you look for it.
On the palate: Light green tea, the light wood – I’d say the white oak is doing something in there, otherwise there’s french oak too (think Macallan 12 Fine Oak). Definitely citrus, yes to the yuzu and lemon, although my first thought was pink grapefruit. I get a little toasted nut – almonds or cashews, but faintly. Some peaty heat after the swallow, but very mild.
The finish. It does actually hang around but it’s pretty subtle, so it seems like it finished earlier than it really does. I’m left with the vanilla from the wood, some sweet peat aftermath and some really subtle buttered toast characteristics. Honeyed lemon peel (again, really light).
What do I think: It’s a good whiskey, but not one I’ve often reached for. It’s too subtle and light for me – not good enough on it’s own (in comparison to alternatives) but too good to use in a highball (it does make a very good highball though). It’d make a good introduction whiskey though as it’s approachable and inoffensive, despite being (lightly) peated.
What does it remind me of: Macallan 12 Fine Oak. But not as seamless and with a lighter mouthfeel and flavours. Given that in Australia it retails at about the same price as the Macallan 12 Fine Oak I’d pick the Macallan.
Whiskyography 